Tag: Woodworking

Zero Clearance Base

Zero Clearance Base

This was a relatively simple upgrade for the circular saw to reduce the breakout when cutting a laminated worktop.

First job was to measure and cut the piece of 9mm plywood slightly smaller than the base so that it wouldn’t interfere with the saws included fence or if I used a straight edge.

Then I drilled and tapped M4 holes in the corners of the saw base, these will also be used  to mount it in the table saw project. I went with M4 as although smaller than I would like they are the same size as the screws holding the base on my router, this means when I do build the Router / Table / Saw the screws will be interchangeable between attachments.

For the table saw project I’ll use countersunk screws but as I don’t have any yet I drilled 12mm recesses with a Forstner bit and then drilled the clearance holes for normal M4 bolts. In the end these were a little closer to the edge of the plywood than I had intended but they were in the best places on the saw base to avoid the workings but remain on the flat of the base.

Zero Clearance Base

The final task was to plunge the blade through the plywood to create a slot that perfectly matched the blade dimensions hopefully preventing splintering and breakout when cutting laminate.

Bosch POF1200 Router – Base Adjustment Conversion

Bosch POF1200 Router – Base Adjustment Conversion

When I began building a router table I looked at the various options & recommendations for router and the number 1 choice seemed to be the Trend T11 with the ability to adjust its height from the base.

I went to look at them in Axminster tools and decided that the mechanism was nothing more than a long bolt. This inspired me to modify my existing Bosch router to allow height adjust from the base.

The normal depth stop is a 6mm rod so the mount for this made the basis for the new adjustment. I needed to get a straight line through the depth stop to the base below, my centre punch was too wide but a suitable diameter Phillips screwdriver worked well enough to make a mark. It proved impossible to get a drill into this position on the top side without removing the base so I used a 3mm bit in the cordless drill to give me a pilot hole then turn it over and use a 6mm bit in the pillar drill from the underside to make the hole. Sadly due to the shape of the base this wasn’t as easy as it sounded and I ended up having to elongate the hole to line up with the depth stop.

Then it was simply a case of putting a 6mm bolt through the holes and attaching a washer and nut to the end, this was more a proof of concept than a final design but by tightening the nut I was able to raise and lower the router. I will get a long flat headed bolt that can be inserted from the base end and will make a suitably shaped piece with a threaded hole to fit above the depth stop that won’t be able to rotate. For this I used an off cut of aluminium bar about 20mm long then drilled and tapped a hole for the bolt. It’s not the prettiest solution but it does the job.

The final task was to remove the spring loaded locking bolt that is operated by the left hand during normal handheld plunge routing, this was a simple case of unscrewing the retaining screw on the thumb lever and removing the locking bolt and Spring. I’ll probably put a blanking plug in the hole to prevent dust entry when the bolt is removed.